Hawaiian History

With Vancouver in Hawaii

By Thomas Manby

Thomas Manby sailed as master's mate with Captain George Vancouver on the famous British exploring expedition to the Pacific in the Chatham and the Discovery in 1791. This is taken from his journal.

[February 15, 1793] By noon we had approached within five miles of Karakakooah Bay, and had soon after the satisfaction of seeing three canoes paddling toward us. We shortened sail to let them come up, and were a good deal surprised to find an Englishman in one of them. The canoes belonged to the king: on seeing us he hurried off this man to welcome us to the island and beg our acceptance of seven hogs and some vegetables.

The history of our countryman instantly engaged our attention. When last at Atooi we first learnt that the treacherous Tianna had seized an American schooner and murdered all the crew but one. From this man we learnt the truth of the report, and that he at that time belonged to an American brig laying in Karakakooah Bay. The natives made an attempt on the brig and would have succeeded had she not cut her cables and stood for sea. This poor fellow happened to be on shore at the time, saw with astonishment his vessel sail without him, and was immediately after made prisoner and doomed to death. The humane chief that saved the life of the schooner's man also preserved this man from destruction and sent him to the king, with whom he has been living ever since, exceedingly happy and contented. His name is John Young, a native of Lancashire. All thoughts of returning to his own country he has long since given up. By the natives he is considered as a chief. The sovereign has given him extensive estates well stored with hogs and plantations of all kinds of vegetables. He has a town house near the royal residence and as many wives as his inclination dictates.

From Young we learnt that a general Tabooroora [kapu loulu] now existed through the island. It had been in force eight days and would not expire till two more were past. This was unpleasant news, as it precluded both men and women coming afloat. During these days of penance the king and nearly all the chiefs reside in the marai, or place of worship. Animal and vegetable sacrifices are offered every morning to some particular deity. Women at these stated periods are not allowed to quit their houses, or even be seen; and the men lay under very great restrictions. The present Tabooroora is an invocation to the god that presides over fish: it is annually observed at this season of the year, as a notion prevails that were this ceremony neglected, the finny tribe would immediately quit the shores of Owhyee.

While this religious interdiction remains in force it is rigidly attended to, and death is the consequence should anyone disobey the mandate of the high priest. A suitable present was sent on shore to the king with our wish of seeing him as soon as possible. In the evening the canoes left us; we stood off and on during the night and found that a strong current drifted us ten miles to the westward during the night. We continued plying near the west point till the 16th, expecting the Discovery every moment would heave in sight.

In the afternoon of this day we brought to, to let a squadron of large double canoes join us. As they came from Karakakooah and were paddling with more than common speed, we knew it was some great man approaching. It proved to be his majesty attended by the Englishman and a large retinue of attendance.

He shook hands with us and expressed a good deal of joy at seeing us, and ordered some of his retinue to unload the canoes that held his present, consisting of hogs, pigs, and various kinds of fruit.

Our royal visitor asked many questions about the Discovery and appeared to be under great apprehension lest she should go to the other islands in preference to Owhyee. His name is Tomahamaha. He had on a large Chinese dressing gown which is considered as the most valuable piece of attire in his majesty's wardrobe: it belonged to the late King Terrieboo, who received it from Captain Cook a few days before he lost his life.

We offered him wine and brandy; the former he stuck to with evident satisfaction and soon finished his bottle. He sent for his purveyor into the cabin and demanded something to eat. A roasted dog, two fish, and a calabash full of taro pudding were placed before him. In a few minutes the whole of the dog was devoured; the fish, each weighing half a pound, followed the dog, although they were in the same state as when taken from the water - scales, gills, and garbage. His feeding actually disgusted us, and the quantity he consumed would have been a profusion for three moderate men. . .

He is of large stature and very athletic; his countenance is truly savage, as all his foreteeth are out. The greatest respect is paid to him; as he is beloved by all his subjects, we may certainly pronounce him a good king.

On the morning of the 17th, by sunrise, the vessel was surrounded by canoes, every one freighted with the choicest part of the creation, the female sex. It is them alone that can harmonize the soul, banish sorrows from the mind, and give to mankind true felicity; even the uncivilized brunette in a state of nature can do all this, and convinces that happiness is incomplete without them. In a moment our decks were crowded with young, good-natured girls, whilst the surface of the water around us was covered with some hundreds soliciting admittance. Our bark instantly became a scene of jollity and all was pleasure and delight.

A strong lee current and light winds drifted us some miles off the land; most of the canoes returned to the shore, and soon after we were joined by the Discovery.

Captain Vancouver made known his intentions of anchoring in Karakakooah Bay. Both vessels made all sail, but by the perverseness of the winds did not reach it till the 22nd, at night.

Large fires were made on the western point of the bay, and the king sent out some of his large double canoes, who assisted us greatly in towing. At 10 p.m. we anchored in twelve fathoms and moored about half a mile from the shore. On the following morning, long before day broke, canoes began to assemble round us; they flocked into the bay from all parts; by noon you could scarce see the water in any part of the bay, as the canoes formed a complete platform. The number of people then afloat could not be less than thirty thousand. The noise they made is not to be conceived; everybody loudly speaking and being assisted by the musical cries of some scores of hogs and pigs absolutely stunned us on board the brig.

The shores in every direction were lined with people; and such was their curiosity to approach the vessels that many hundreds swam off to us, holding up by one hand a little pig, a fowl, or a bunch of plantains.

In the forenoon the bay became a scene of sad confusion by his majesty embarking with a large retinue to pay his respects to Captain Vancouver. He brought with him an amazing present contained in fourteen double canoes all following each other in an exact line.

The sovereign led the van in one of the largest canoes we ever saw, paddled by forty-six men. The monarch with his squadron passed three times around the vessels before he went alongside the Discovery. The exactness of his rowers both in skill, dexterity, and dress, and the appearance of the royal personage standing up in a manly attitude holding a spear in his right hand, had an appearance both splendid and magnificent.

He was robed in a beautiful cloak of yellow feathers that reached from his shoulders to his feet, whilst a feather helmet adorned his head of scarlet, black, and yellow. The usual token of friendship being exchanged by touching noses with Captain Vancouver, his present was ordered on board the ships - consisting of eighty large hogs, pigs, fowls, and all the kinds of fruit and vegetables Owhyee produced.

The cattle greatly delighted him, though it took some time to quiet his fears lest they should bite him. He called them large hogs, and after much persuasion we prevailed on him to go close up to them; at that instant one of the poor animals, turning its head round quickly, so alarmed his majesty that he made a speedy retreat and ran over half of his retinue. His fright was not of long duration and ceased on seeing some of his attendants take them by the horns.

They were sent on shore in his canoes to his village; a chief of consequence and a party of men were appointed to attend them, and very particular orders were given with the sick bull to see him carefully nursed. The four cows were in tolerable condition and had got very tame by being on board. The concourse of people to see them landed was inmense; we were a good deal diverted at seeing the terror the whole village was thrown into by one of the cows galloping along the beach and kicking up her heels. Thousands ran for the sea and plunged in; every coconut tree was full in a moment; some jumped down precipices, others scrambled up rocks and houses; in short, not a man would approach for half an hour. The king directed that his two Englishmen should remain on board the vessels during our stay, to regulate the traffic and keep the natives in order. All kinds of refreshments he promised to supply us daily with, and finished his civilities by requesting to hear our wants that he might get them supplied as soon as possible.

He made numerous inquiries about King George, whether he had forgiven them for killing Captain Cook; that dreadful event gave him, he said, frequent uneasiness. The blame was all thrown on Terrieboo, the late king. Tomahamaha was an active performer on that important day. His name at that time was Mahamaha and is mentioned in the narrative of Captain Cook's death by such.

Before he left the ship his two queens came on hoard with other female relations; they were each presented with ribbons and beads. The royal dames were plump and jolly, very lively and good-humored. The girls on board offered all the trinkets we had given them to these ladies of rank; they received some and enquired after particular sorts of beads. The only clothing they had on was many folds of thin cloth about their waist reaching nearly to the knee; every other part of them remains uncovered, with few ornaments, the principal one a piece of polished bone fastened round their necks with plaited hair. The visitors left the ship a little before sunset, and an unwelcome messenger from the marai proclaimed another vile Tabooroom to take place at the setting of the luminary.

Our female friends instantly left us, with many invectives against the barbarous custom that would now confine them to their habitations for two nights and one day. We parted with them with regret and reluctance; passed thirty dull hours; and received them again in our arms by sunrise on the 24th. The moon being within a day of the full created this religious restriction: It is called the Tabooroora Marai: while it lasts the chiefs and priests reside in the marai, pass their time in prayer, and make offerings to their departed friends. Captain Vancouver directed that no one should go ashore belonging to our vessels, in order to convince them no violation of their laws and customs should take place on our part and that we looked for equal attention and exactness to be observed in everything relating to the ship.

The master of the Discovery was sent on shore with the observatory and instruments to regulate the timekeepers. Tomahamaha gave him a small potato garden at the foot of the marai; in this place Captain Cook made his observations and settled the longtitude of the island. A chief and party of men were appointed as guards of the observatory. And as no women could come to the tents, being within the limits of the marai, the considerate king supplied the astronomers with a large house about sixty yards from their residence, where they might entertain their female friends and observe the beauties of Venus whilst the other planets were obscured by clouds.

On the 25th, I paid my first visit to the shore and, of course, to the royal apartments immediately on landing. They are walled round, and consist of four houses. One of the queens received me; she was sitting under the branches of a cloth tree stringing beads, surrounded by twenty attendants, most of whom were cooling the air with fans. She placed me by her, sent for fruit, and ordered some coconuts to be fresh gathered from a neighboring tree. Her majesty amused herself some time in tying and untying my hair, decorating it with feathers, flowers, and other things. She then nearly undressed me to observe my skin. My left leg, that had undergone an operation of tattooing at Otaheite, pleased her greatly. She sent for an old man to come and see it, who examined it attentively for a quarter of an hour; and then a long conversation ensued which produced a great deal of mirth.

The hieroglyphical characters at Otaheite may be known to these people; and as the man who tattooed me knew my disposition and how I was circumstanced at the moment, I conjecture he has imprinted some South Sea mark that will create a smile in most islands in the Pacific Ocean.

After passing an hour in flirtation with this generous queen, some little particulars were exchanged, though by no means criminal, that occasioned her majesty to be called to order by a little deformed wretch who, I was afterwards informed, held a situation of high honor in the royal household. On inquiring from our Englishman I find every woman of distinction is attended by one or more of this humpbacked race in Owhyee; they are responsible for the conduct of the females, and are put to death should she be found in any other arms than those of her husband.

Only two of the houses in the palace yard were considered as the residence of the sovereign; the others were occupied by his retinue. The two appropriated to his use were of equal size and well built, one dedicated to his meals, the other to his slumbers. The sleeping mansion was spread with a great many mats and large piles of the softest cloth; a softer or better bed cannot be formed. The smallness of the door renders their habitations unpleasant by the want of light, and obstructs a more considerable consideration to a tropical climate, that of air. Passing through a small wicket door brought us to the marai, or place of worship. The marai much resembles the square steeple of an English country church in its form; it is built with wood and ornamented with small bunches of cloth. We did not see the inside, but were informed the bones of deceased kings lay in it. It is fenced round with short poles with many human skulls sticking on them, the remains of sacrifices. Close to the marai is a house, the residence of the chief priest, called Tahoona, and before his door stands the great Oroona, or god of Owhyee.

The Oroona is a huge figure cut out of wood to resemble a man's face, with an enormous large mouth, stuck full of teeth, with two large mother-of-pearl eyes. An old man while we were present brought him his dinner; it consisted of a large fish and a bundle of plantains; they were first carried into the marai, underwent some ceremony, and then brought to the Oroona.

The fish they crammed into his mouth and hung the plantains near him. I understand the deity's repast is always consumed before the morning: the idol has the credit, and the priests, no doubt, have the gratification of a good supper every night and laugh at the credulity of the countrymen.

Four little images are ranged near the Oroona; each had an offering of flesh or fruits, and all decorated with cloth of various colors.

To distort the countenances the artists of these figures particularly attend to, and I believe the deity most deformed in features gains veneration by his hideous appearance. In the marai yard we saw three other houses that held the bones of a great many warriors: they were paled round, but stunk so abominably we could not approach them. The stench arose from hogs, dogs, and fowls in a state of putrefaction; the roof of each sepulcher was filled with them and thronged by large swarms of flies.